Beijing's ancient camel stop revived as tourism hot spot

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By Xin Wen (China Daily) 14:59, March 24, 2025

Four characters on a wall that say "camel bells ring on ancient road" in Moshikou area. (Photo/China Daily)

Moshikou resident An Licheng, 79, remembers well the sound of camel bells ringing as the pack animals traversed the mountain pass in Beijing's western region making their way to the city's downtown.

He said when he was a youngster he could hear the bells sounding from as early as 4 am.

"There was only one road to cross from the western Mentougou district to downtown Beijing, with a large mountain pass on the west side of the road," said An.

"The camel team, which included at least five and up to seven camels, walked across the road to carry coal or groceries to the city's downtown, and returned in the afternoon at around 3 or 4 pm.

"Those camels didn't stop to rest. Their endurance was strong, and they only stopped to drink water from a well in the middle of our village to replenish their strength."

Located in Shijingshan district, what today is officially known as Moshikou Historical and Cultural Block, has seen a large influx of visitors over the past two years due to its renovation. The block was recently chosen as part of the fourth group of national-level tourist spots by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism.

Early last century, Moshikou was characterized by muddy roads and irregularly placed power poles. Over the decades, it has undergone a modernization process, but maintained its cultural traditions and characteristics.

A dragon dance show celebrates Lichun (Start of Spring) at Moshikou Street in Beijing on Feb 3. (Photo/China Daily)

A century of change

During the Ming and Qing dynasties (1368-1911), Moshikou was a prosperous area. As wine shops and inns flourished to cater to camel caravans passing along what was called the "Camel Bell Ancient Road".

The block's historical connection to camels is depicted in the classic novel Camel Xiangzi by renowned novelist Lao She, which captured the everyday life of Beijing residents in the late 1920s.

The modern development of Moshikou began in 1922 when it became the first village in Beijing to have electricity.

A year later, to reflect the progress brought by electrification and other advances, the meaning of the name of the village was changed from "millstone" to "model", with both having the same Chinese pronunciation.

Moshikou, "the model of all villages", has been used ever since.

Despite the changes, An remembers the vital role camels played in carrying loads weighing up to 350 kilograms of goods.

"At that time, when it rained, the dirt road turned muddy and the carriages could not pass through, so they could only rely on camels for transport," he said. "Later, as the road improved and more carriages appeared, the camels were gradually phased out."

An's family has been in Moshikou for three generations. He currently lives with four family members in a house covering about 300 square meters, half of which is leased for commercial use.

"I'm glad that the street has taken on a new look, and the change has been obvious," he said. The stores and shops, as well as the walls on both sides of the street, have undergone a major face-lift, with some of the houses retaining their original appearance, he said.

New food shops have popped up, attracting locals and visitors from the surrounding area to sample their dishes.

Before the changes, the street was a hive of activity, with stalls selling pork, Chinese chives and snacks, said An. "I especially liked the tofu made with water from the deep mountain spring," he said.

Since the renovation, the whole atmosphere of the street has improved and the food offerings have changed. An said he had tried two new food offerings and preferred the pancakes he sampled to a dish that was popular with visitors.

People visit the Moshikou Street in Beijing in February. (Photo/China Daily)

Preserving the past

Zheng Tengfei is manager of Gudao Sicun, a courtyard that has a folk culture exhibition, displays and a cafe that highlights the attractions of the ancient trail. When visitors enter the venue they can refer to a copper cast map that takes them to exhibition halls and leads them to explore the displays on their own.

The property was a grain store during the planned economy era from 1949 to 1978, then a pharmacy, and a Taoist temple, before finally being renovated into the courtyard.

Zheng, 34, a native of Fengtai district, in Beijing, said that he hadn't intended to open a cafe in Shijingshan, particularly during the pandemic. However, when a friend told him about the Moshikou area's upgrade and the popularity of outdoor activities there, he changed his mind.