Cornwall's Tavern Struggles In Industry Hard Hit By Pandemic

Opening day brings a small bump in business to Cornwall's, mostly from neighborhood regulars. But the initial rush would fizzle out soon after, leaving the family-owned pub just barely covering its costs. Tovia Smith/NPR hide caption

Few people have been looking forward to colleges reopening – and staying open — this fall, as much as the people who run Cornwall's Tavern in Boston's Kenmore Square. A go-to for students and faculty at Boston University, the family-owned pub has been counting on the back-to-school crowds to help it survive. In an industry hard-hit by the pandemic, it's a test Cornwall's can't afford to fail.

"It's a frightening time," said Pam Beale, who owns the place with her husband John. "It feels like the earth is moving under your feel all the time."

After forty years in business, and four months shut down by the pandemic, Cornwall's reopened in July with a lot to learn. Even as they opened the doors that day, they were still scrambling to work out the kinks in their new takeout and delivery service, set up their new outdoor dining space, implement new safety protocols and master the new breakfast menu they added because new COVID-19 rules put the kibosh on crowded bars running late into the night — the core of Cornwall's business.

The Beales were running around looking for the umbrellas for their sidewalk seating, and printing out new disposable menus. Their nephews JR and Billy Moran, who work in the kitchen and behind the bar, respectively, and Billy's wife Lauren who was helping out, were still working out everything from how to fold a breakfast burrito without breaking it, to how to post on the Instagram account they'd just set up.

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They snapped pictures of themselves smiling under their masks in front of their signature copper-top bar, and another one showcasing their new breakfast special: crispy tater tots with avocado, bacon, a fried egg and spicy mayo. It was the first time ever that this long-time institution had to think about marketing. Even figuring out how much food to order is a challenge these days, when nothing is predictable.

"If you see one of us frantically run out the door," cracked Billy, "we're going to buy some milk because we've run out."

At 8 a.m. sharp, one of their regulars, Chris Strang strolled in, and Pam greeted him with a socially-distanced kind of air hug, and reminded him of the new normal.

"No seats at the bar, so you can't sit here and chat with Billy," she said. "You have to sit over there and talk louder." Billy pulled the first cup of coffee from the new espresso machine they recently installed at the bar, and served a hot cup to Strang.

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Pam and John Beale set up new sidewalk seating in front of Cornwall's, hoping the extra capacity would help them survive the pandemic. Their English-style pub has been a mainstay in Boston's Kenmore Square for nearly 40 years. 

Pam and John Beale set up new sidewalk seating in front of Cornwall's, hoping the extra capacity would help them survive the pandemic. Their English-style pub has been a mainstay in Boston's Kenmore Square for nearly 40 years.

As it turned out, they'd have plenty of time to catch up. Strang would be not only Cornwall's first customer, but also its only customer for nearly two hours. The usually bustling Kenmore Square was drained of virtually any sign of life; no commuters, no students, no hotel guests, and no baseball fans headed to nearby Fenway Park.